To Cuba, and why we love it

I don’t know whether it’s the architecture, the burst of vibrant colors, the Caribbean climate or the warmth of its people, singing and dancing every chance they get, but Cuba, the alligator shaped island just 90 miles South of Florida, is the most captivating place I’ve ever been. And I don’t say this because everyone else does. It just is.

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My love affair started in 2014, when as an American citizen, I joined a people-to-people tour journeying from Havana all the way to Guantanamo, the easternmost province. Despite initial doubts, the structured tour afforded me the opportunity to meet some incredible artists and communities I wouldn’t have otherwise met as a tourist: music students, ballet dancers, cuentapropistas (Cuba’s self-employed entrepreneurs) and more; the common thread, unrelenting passion. It was an intense 13 days that opened my eyes to the magic of Cuba and the intricacies of its history, starting with the allure of Havana and on to the artists of Camagüey, the Afro-Cuban vibe of Santiago de Cuba, and lush remoteness of Baracoa.

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This summer, as Cuba further nurtured diplomatic relations with the United States, I excitedly returned to the island. This time, I traveled west to Pinar del Rio, and then on to Cienfuegos, Trinidad and Bay of Pigs. The biggest difference, aside from the changes occurring on the Caribbean nation, was entering with my Romanian passport. I wanted a different perspective, which proved just as valuable. While I missed some of the first-hand interaction with Cuban communities on my previous visit, this time around I was free to go wherever I wanted, whichever beach or museum. I stayed in casas particulares (privately-owned houses open for tourists) instead of hotels. I went local, still, in a different way. I loved the mogotes (limestone formations) and guajiros (farmers) of Viñales and swimming in the Bay of Pigs. Looking back, this trip was just as rich as my first.

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But most importantly, I realized that regardless of my passport or the two eventful years that passed, Cuba remained in essence the same: vibrant, welcoming and wholehearted. Yes, there’s some real change to be seen: better, cheaper Wi-Fi in hotspots around the country, landmarks refurbished, new hotel sites and ever-booming tourism. Frenzied energy is palpable on the streets of Havana, and so are higher prices. But Cuba, at its core, with all its controversies and irresistible pull, won’t be changing any time soon. Go now, go whenever. Cuba is, and will remain, unrelenting passion.

Dreamy Ometepe & Finca San Juan

Our ferry boat sailed towards Ometepe Island: twin volcanoes that rise out of Lake Nicaragua, sloping down to lush forests and sandy beaches. We always heard about Ometepe during our Central American travels, and it sounded like a mythical place…volcano trekking to sky-high lagoons, wild horses galloping the shores, kids riding to school on ox carts, and community farms growing organic vegetables. We disembarked and drove around the base of Volcano Concepción and reached the lush grounds of Finca San Juan de La Isla, and thought this may be paradise after all.

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The “driveway” went on for over a mile through orchards, pastures, and banana plantations, until we reached the historic Spanish-hacienda-turned-hotel. The reception was in the former stables and the original house was now the lobby that flowed out to the open-air restaurant, twinkling with lights.

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Walking through the gardens of papaya and frangipani trees, the bellman showed us to our room: a stilted suite with a spacious porch on the lakeshore. Outside looked like a classic log cabin and inside was freshly designed with minimalist décor and a luxurious bathroom.

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We got a great night sleep and went down to enjoy the complimentary breakfast. I had the Finca (eggs, gallo pinto, plantains, and homemade cuajada cheese) and I had the French toast with fruit. When we heard most of the ingredients on the menu were grown on their 160-acre farm (with 40,000 fruit trees!), we had to hike the grounds. Wandering between the forest of fruits, we stopped by the horse stables, a bubbling spring, and the farmhands’ house–where we got invited in for a special stew!

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Each afternoon at San Juan presented us with tons of things to do: horseback riding, kayaking, mountain biking, swimming, or a guided hike up the active Concepción or the lagoon-topped Maderas volcano.

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The hotel helped arrange a motorbike so we could cover the most ground and adventure in a short stay. We headed toward Maderas, the smaller of the two volcanoes (still an impressive 4,573 feet tall) and enjoyed local life along the slopes. We stopped at the historic coffee plantation of Finca Magdalena, had picnic on the beach with the horses, and joined the fanfare at a Balgue soccer game.

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From Finca Magadalena, we followed one of the hiking trails to an ancient petroglyph in the forest. Ometepe has a rich pre-Columbian history with over 73 different sites scattered around the island.

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For our final night at San Juan de la Isla, we took a private cooking class with their head chef Ernesto. He wanted to show us classic Nicaraguan cuisine with an Indio Viejo soup. This recipe is said to date back to pre-Columbian times and made with ingredients, like the achiote plant, that are native to the region. We had a blast chopping, chatting, and sampling our way through the class and ultimately eating a delicious meal together.

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When the owners of San Juan de La Isla, saw this historic finca, they weren’t hoteliers or farmers at the time, but dreamers with a vision for a lodge to match Ometepe’s mystical reputation.

La Pinte du Vieux Manoir

La Pinte du Vieux Manoir, set in Switzerland’s gorgeous Lake District, is as fabulous as it sounds. The elegance that permeates every corner of the property is matched only by the gracious hospitality of each member of the staff. Further afield, you find a quaint village that seems bent on charming all newcomers at every turn. But the real winner, if it’s possible to pick, is the property’s spectacular restaurant. These and many other factors culminate into the epitome of grace and charm that is Le Pinte de Vieux Manoir.

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La Pinte du Vieux Manoir’s property sits lakeside on substantial grounds that include many accommodation options. From the the Lake House, the Railway House and the Glass Diamond, there’s an option for everyone. We stayed in the Lake House and were delighted from start to finish. Perfect for a couple or a group looking to get away, the lake house’s décor exemplifies understated elegance. The bright airy rooms are as comfortable as they are chic, and the view of the lake from the large windows will make your jaw drop and your mind still. The house is situated a minute walk from the restaurant and this allows convenience without sacrificing privacy. You’ll feel a million miles away, yet only need a short walk to get to dinner or the village. But before you leave, have La Pinte de Vieux Manoir set up a relaxing massage to be had in your room. You can thank me later.

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The village is a moment away, and from there you can sightsee and stroll to your heart’s content. Not surprisingly, we chose to do a bit of all. The town’s ancient city wall holds gorgeous views of the lake and surrounding hills. Take a ferry across the lakes to enjoy seeing the town and surrounding vineyards from the water. And while out, it would be a travesty to not go to the neighboring vineyards to taste Switzerland’s best kept secret. Planted by the Romans, these grapes yield delicious Pinot Noir and white wines. Since Switzerland vineyards rarely export, this is a treat that you simply must take advantage of. La Pinte du Vieux Manoir can set up any of these activities, and they have exceptional relationships with the vineyards since their restaurant serves local wines. Which reminds me, don’t stay at the vineyards too long. You don’t want to miss a single meal at La Pinte du Vieux Manoir restaurant.

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Specializing in seasonal dishes with a modern twist, this restaurant is one of the best in the world. Head chef Rudolf Reetz creates classic French dishes with his own unique interpretations. Miraculously, in his modifications he doesn’t sacrifice a molecule of flavor, even to go so far as improving these age-old recipes. It is spectacular to experience. The menu is constantly changing, not only with the season, but because many locals come to the restaurant multiple times each week and Reetz likes to keep them surprised. The meals use fresh herbs from the garden, and they make as much of the food as possible themselves. If you’re able to glance away from your plate, you can soak in the restaurant’s peaceful ambiance and gorgeous views. You’ll likely be saddened when dinner is over, but don’t despair. Reetz hand delivers a charming breakfast basket to your door in the morning! The basket is full of deliciousness, and it promises that your day at La Pinte du Vieux Manoir will be as fabulous as the last.

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La Pinte du Vieux Manoir exudes elegance and comfort with ease and class that must be experienced in your lifetime. Whether it’s enjoying the stunning lake views, marveling over Reetz’s latest culinary achievement, or simply strolling the grounds to soak up every corner, you’ll adore every moment spent in this special place. You will leave refreshed and better able to take on the world, and dying come back for more.